I loved it but I loved looking at him more, so I didn’t really think much about the surfing to be honest.
My boyfriend at the time bought me an 8.0 for my b-day 3 birthdays ago in July and I never looked back.
I’ll maybe never hang ten or ride a shorty like a boss, but I LOVE EVERY MINUTE OF IT!!!
As a ticket checker, receptionist at the lodge, a night time janitor (best because then I got to ride all day and work at night) all the die hards wanted that job.
Snow rats weren't above scrubbing toilets to get more runs in.
They have no time, energy or in some cases, awareness that tourism is keeping their economy afloat, but in fact murdering their precious planet.
They don’t have time of beach cleanups, animal rescue etc.
After watching a few friends break their fears of swimming, sharks, the ocean.
I realized that’s the ultimate gift I could ever give; experience.
I am the most full, the happiest and the healthiest mentally when I am surfing.
Yes, yoga has a HUGE roll my ability to surf, in fact when my yoga practice gets put on the back burner, I can immediately feel it in my surf.
I grew up skiing and snowboarding at the resorts in Tahoe and eventually moved to Kirkwood, my favorite mountain, and worked various jobs just so I could ride as often as possible.